I just returned about 2 months ago from living and working in Japan for 3 years. I am enamored with Japan - it is such an incredibly beautiful country and Japanese traditional culture, which is deeply ingrained in day-to-day life, is so very fascinating to me. Since my first visit 10 years ago, I felt I needed to return and immerse myself in this country that stole my heart.
3 years ago I embarked on an adventure that had me terrified and so so very excited. I picked up and moved to Japan where I took a job as an assistant English teacher in a local Junior High School. It was an incredible experience during which I learned a multitude about Japan, Japanese culture, and just how much I thrived on exploration.
In my time there, I channeled a great deal of my creativity into mostly photography (the natural beauty of Japan was an endless photographic treasure trove). But, I also learned about and took up doing some traditional Japanese arts and crafts. One such craft was こぎん刺し(Kogin-zashi).
Kogin-zashi is a form of 刺し子(Sashiko) or decorative reinforcement embroidery. There are many types of Sashiko throughout Japan, all developed over centuries based on the needs and resources in individual areas of the country. Kogin-zashi is the local Sashiko from the northern prefecture of Aomori and it has an incredibly fascinating back story.
Back during the Edo period, between the years 1603 and 1868, low class Japanese were not permitted to wear cotton since it was imported and therefore very expensive. This left the lower class with only hemp for garments and in a region as cold as Aomori, hemp was simply not enough in the bitter winters. Now, cotton fabric was off-limits for the low class, but cotton thread was not. So, through an ingenious work-around of the class laws, the lower class turned to reinforcement of their hemp garments with cotton thread. Embroidering hemp with cotton thread not only added warmth but also strengthened the material substantially. Traditional Kogin-zashi can be seen on the shoulders and elbows of old haori in massive blocks of geometric designs - usually white thread on indigo dyed hemp.
Kogin-zashi, like any craft, has formed over many years and there are many sub-categories and a wealth of patterns both new and ancient to explore. I decided to try my hand at it and found it delightful and very satisfying.
My first project was to embroider a traditional design to decorate the lid of a compact mirror. I decided to start with a navy blue linen fabric and white cotton thread as a nod to the craft's origin.
Once I had gotten this little piece done, I decided to go for a larger one. I took the same pattern from the mirror and made an arrangement for a larger piece: a zippered pouch.
I didn't follow this pattern exactly as you will see. Because Kogin-zashi uses a grid-closing technique it is very easy to add on elements so long as you know exactly how many threads in the warp and weft your design will need. So, I started with this pattern and then improvised as I worked. You can see where I used thread to mark straight lines in preparation for future additions.
The final front and back pieces were ironed before sewing. Traditional Kogin-zashi did not entail the use of hoops like I used, but I was working with a fairly densely woven linen and wanted to keep it taut.
And then the final product - including a tassel that I made using the same thread that I embroidered with and a fabric lining in a complementing color and pattern.
Thus began my journey with Kogin-zashi. Please look out for more posts of my Kogin-zashi creations in then future!
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